Friday, 28 August 2015

Gear

The PCT seems a long, long time ago.  Readapting to living "in civilization" went quickly, though my feet still ache from time to time.   I've spent a few weeks spending time with family, including road trips to Big Sur on the California coast and to Portland, Oregon (lots of smoke in the northwest; there are about sixty miles of PCT trail closures in Oregon and Washington due to forest fires).

To wrap up my trail blog, I've included kit details below, as a gear discussion is a traditional inclusion in every PCT blog I've seen.  I'd considered trying to summarize my closing thoughts about the trail in another entry, but I've concluded that there's still more reflection required and that there will still be takeaways and impacts that I'm not yet aware of.  I am planning to return to the office and my company and will now be searching for a role.  In any case, I expect that returning to a busy schedule will trigger more thoughts on my hike.

So, this entry will close things out for the moment.  Sadly, this topic will bore folks not interested in gear!  If you have an interest, then read on...

Gear:

Nowadays, there are a wide variety of vendors offering an ever increasingly sophisticated variety of gear for the outdoors.  Just about every item can be considered for trade-offs across price, weight, and functionality.  You can spend endless hours agonizing over choices and analyzing the contents of posted gear lists for other hikers.

My general thoughts for multimonth hikes:

*Gear can be very individual.  I recommend attempting to field test as much of your kit as possible in advance of your trip to learn what works for you.  Hours of analysis and contemplation are no substitute for the learnings from in-the-field experience.  Also, you needn't follow what "everyone else is doing"; pack what works for you.

*On a multimonth hike, inevitably you will end up replacing some gear with a different model, and incurring the accompanying costs, unless you're already gone through this process as an experienced long distance hiker.  This is typical and not something to fret over (budget permitting).

*Speaking of budgets, a long distance hike may be more expensive than you think.  In addition to gear, there's the cost of food, resupplying consumables like fuel and sanitizer, transport (to and from the trail, within the trail), the occasional hotel room or hostel, and socializing.  With respect to budget and gear:

1) Spending more for additional lightness or functionality can be worth it.  There are hikers who end up replacing tents, backpacks, shoes or other expensive items on the trail and end up spending more than they would have if they had bought the more expensive model to start.  Try to take the time to try things out in advance, including taking the time in the store with a salesperson to test things out.  Think about the factors that are most important to you, rather than all the features that are marketed, or all the features touted on blogs.

2) Still, you certainly don't need the most expensive model of everything.  People who hiked the PCT twenty years ago had nowhere near the designs and materials offered to hikers today.  An extra pound in base weight will not doom your hike.

*In any case, unless you've splurged on the lightest gear in all categories, you will repeatedly spend time throughout your hike thinking about how you can reduce your pack weight!

In my case, naturally I didn't follow my advice.  Given limited options in India, I bought my gear online in the U.S., sight unseen, then packed it up, untested, when I returned.  I hit the trail and hoped for the best.  (I hadn't even fully pitched my tent until my first night on the trail; I don't recommend this approach!).

That said, to improve my odds of success (and overall the my kit was a success), I followed two actions.

First, I performed moderate online research, looking at maybe a dozen PCT gear lists, a half-dozen videos, and a half-dozen sites with gear reviews and tips (in particular, REI, Section Hiker, Outdoor Gear Lab, and Andrew Skurka).  This gave me a sense of the major vendors and products and trade-offs.

Second, I leveraged my UK hiking experience -- this was my stand-in for testing gear in advance.  For example, my UK daypack wasn't big enough for a long distance hike, but I used its sizing for ordering another pack.

I chose gear that was widely used, and I tried to buy as much of it on sale as I could over the course of several months.  Other demands in India limited the time available to obsess over gear and prevented "analysis paralysis".

Without further ado...

Pack: ULA Circuit.  Far from the lightest pack available, but tried and true by probably hundreds of PCT hikers.  I went with the basic model, not the cuben material version.  The pack was a little tight with a bear can, but it worked well for my 1,600 miles.  In the summer, this was the most common pack on the trail.  In the spring, the Osprey Exo 58 was the most common pack I saw.

Tent: Big Agnes Fly Creek UL1.  Pricey, and again, not the lightest model available, but it is straightforward to set up just about anywhere.  The tent is small; I wouldn't recommend it for anyone six feet tall.  Condensation is an issue.  But overall, I recommend it.  The material may seem flimsy but it held up fairly well, and the tent kept me sheltered from elements including a snowstorm, hail, and high winds.

Sleeping Bag: Sierra Designs Backcountry down quilt.  The particular 40 degree-rated model I got appears discontinued, with other models replacing this.  As with all sleeping quilts, it's lighter than a sleeping bag, given the absence of material on the bottom.  There were definitely a number of nights where a warmer bag would have been welcome.  If you sleep cold, I recommend a warmer bag, even if it's heavier.  I compensated by wearing  layers and, for a few nights in the High Sierras, actually using an emergency blanket.  I used a silk liner to help keep the bag clean.  My pillow was always extra clothing in the cuben bag used for my quilt.

Shoes: Merrill Ventilators, "wide" model.  These are very common, basic hiking shoes.  Not as light as trail runners, but as I wrote before, trail runners are generally too narrow for my feet.  I didn't bother with anything water-resistant or waterproof; I wanted as much ventilation as possible.  I bought these in person, not online, and wore these indoors for a few days first to validate they were comfortable (if not, then you still have a clean pair of shoes to return).

Water treatment: I used a Sawyer filter primarily and carried Aquamira as a backup.  I actually used three different filters...

1) I started with the Sawyer-mini.  Brilliant design, but the drawback of the mini is that it has a relatively slow flow rate; it takes a while to filter lots of water.  If you filter water directly into your mouth, the flow feels appropriate for savoring a fine wine, not quenching thirst.

2) In Bishop, as the local outfitter didn't have the regular-sized Sawyer, I bought an Aquamira filter bottle, which has the filter and a bite valve built in to the top for a plastic bottle.  This worked great for a High Sierra environment where there was flowing water all over the trail; you could just grab water and go and suck it up through the valve.  The limitation was that you couldn't filter water into another container.  Which led me finally to using...

3) the "normal" sized Sawyer filter, which has a much faster flow rate than the mini.  The o-ring on the normal filter is somewhat fragile, though, and broke off after 400 miles, which meant I had to reseat this in the filter every time I unscrewed the filter from a container.  In the end, no filter was perfect.  For a long-distance hike, I'd recommend the normal-sized Sawyer overall.  The weight savings of the mini are outweighed by the slower flow rate.  The mini would be great for trips where you will only be filtering small amounts of water.

For carrying water, I primarily used SmartWater water bottles or the generic Safeway electrolyte water bottles.  I carried a 2-L Platypus for when extra water was needed.  I carried a 1-L Platypus that I used with the Sawyer filters (until it sprung a leak; I then switched to the Sawyer Squeeze bags that came with the filter).  I always had an empty 591-mL bottle (Vitamin Water or Gatorade) for scooping up water.

Sleeping pad: the other item that I replaced.  I ended up using the Therm-a-Rest Z lite sol, which is much warmer than the Gossamer Gear foam pad I started with.

Outerwear:

Insulated jacket - Montbell Thermawrap.  Loved this jacket, which was key given it gets chilly in the mountains, even in August.  You can get relatively inexpensive down coats at Uniqlo or Costco; not sure of the quality.

Fleece - I didn't see anyone else on the trail carrying a fleece; everyone else appeared to only carry an insulated jacket.  However, I found I got too hot hiking while wearing an insulated jacket.  A fleece has breathability in addition to its warmth.  I much preferred hiking with a fleece on if I needed something warm.  The fleece was worth the extra weight to me.

Rainwear - Montbell Versalite waterproofs.  Given the dry weather, the pants weren't really needed, though the jacket I used enough times to be worth carrying.  Worked fine.

Clothing:

Socks - Drymax 1/4 length trail socks.  Very expensive synthetics, but they work incredibly well for my feet, and they are sturdy and didn't need replacing -- no holes.  Definitely worth the investment for me as they helped to keep my feet dry and thus minimize blisters.

Shirt - Ex-Officio button-down, 90% nylon/10% polyester.  Held up well, way less stinky than 100% polyester shirts that I've worn.  Available at a discount if one is less concerned about the particular style/color.  I wore long sleeves to keep off the sun, insects, and wind.

Trousers - Columbia convertibles.  Worked great, apart from the stitching coming out of the back pockets after a few hundred miles.  I didn't really use the convertibility feature.

Hat: I wore a sunhat of the type with a removable drape the lay on and covered my neck.  Not at all a stylish design, but invaluable for keeping the high altitude sun off of my skin and eliminating any need for hauling sunblock around.  (The drape made me wonder if this is what having long hair feels like, in having to move it out of the way while drinking, and wanting to move it out of the way to let the back of your neck feel the fresh air.)

Trekking poles - Black Diamond poles with cork grips, aluminum shafts and those external flip locks that are easy to release.  Trekking poles help me immensely with long-distance hiking, but there are significant numbers of hikers who hike without poles.  I also wore batting gloves while hiking -- these kept the sun, insects, and blisters off my hands.

Electronics-wise, I carried a smartphone and a pocket FM/AM radio.  Most hikers don't pack a radio, but I'd pack this again -- I found it great to have along.

Those, I think, are all the key components of my kit.  For extra clothing, I started with many extra items, but by the end of my hike I was down to one extra pair of socks, one extra pair of underwear (the widely popular Ex-Officio brand), a long sleeve Patagonia capilene, a short-sleeve wool shirt, and a pair of running shorts with a built-in liner.  You get used to wearing the same clothes over and over again.

Food wise, as I noted, I did not carry a stove (and thus didn't carry any fuel or pans).

I did weigh some of my gear, but I didn't go to the lengths of weighing everything.  Nor did I type out a complete inventory of my pack.  So, I don't know my actual base weight (base weight doesn't consider food or water), but I figure it was well under 20 lbs to start, and maybe 16 pounds by the end, once I had a better sense of what I needed (heresy, I know, not knowing my base weight, but in the run-up to starting my hike, given limited time with my gear, all I was focused on was that my pack be manageable, not weighed to the ounce).

So, hiking with gear you've never used before can be done, but there's tremendous value in trying things out beforehand!

Tuesday, 11 August 2015

7 August. Mile 1597. Etna. The End. The End?!

I am departing from the trail!  I know, this is likely a surprise (even to me, in the sense that I note below).  My thoughts:

I think I have gotten about as much out of the hike as I could with regards to my physical and mental health.  My fitness levels are the best they have been in years.  Mentally, my mind is rested (so much so, I think, that part of the reason I have periodic insomnic nights is because my mind is wide awake from being on stand-by during the day's miles).

I can go further in improving my body's health, but that will require consistent and consecutive nights of high quality sleep, and a diet that isn't dependent on periodic infusions of massive quantities of refined, processed calories.

While the mental satisfaction of finishing the trail would still a reward, in order to get there, I'd need to incur the physical and mental costs that would accompany another 1,000 miles of hiking.  I, however, am not returning post-hike to retirement or to a defined role or to the known task of hunting for employment.  I am on a limited period of unpaid leave, with my former role having been filled.  My thinking is to take some time to rest off-trail and catch up with friends and family, and then use the end of this leave to focus on finding a new role and figuring out the associated living logistics.

Originally, I was planning to hike to Crater Lake and end there, about 1800 miles in.  On Wednesday, however, the trail became enveloped in smoke, limiting visibility to a few miles, and leaving a smoky taste in the throat.  The forest fires in northern California and southern Oregon are throwing off vast amounts of smoke being carried far afield by summer winds.

So, I decided after hiking in smog for 40 miles to stop at the town of Etna, nearly 1600 miles in.  It felt strange, after I had mentally been preparing to push on to mile 1820, to suddenly stop.  But every time I revisited the question of continuing, I just looked up and saw the horizon obscured by smoke, and then checked and saw the weather forecasts called for no changes for the next week and for smoke over at least the next 120 miles, and I reached the same conclusion.  (Even if my fellow hikers were pressing on.)

So, I have come off the trail and will be focused on a different kind of break and family time.  Thank you to everyone who followed along!  I imagine that I will have another post or two as I adjust to Life Without Hiking 20 Miles a Day, so this blog isn't entirely complete, even if the hike has ended...

Sunday, 2 August 2015

2 August. Mile 1500. Castle Crags Park

There was a heat wave in northern California the past week, with temperatures well over 100/40, low humidity, winds -- a fire fighter's nightmare.  Clouds moved in yesterday, and temps have cooled, but the air is now filled with a haze, obscuring all views, possibly due in part to the various fires in northern California.

My friend Shane took his weekend in the middle of his business trip to Phoenix to fly up and meet me at Castle Crag park for a day in Redding to clean up, resupply, and refuel while catching up.  I'm making a 5000 foot ascent today with clean clothes and a pack full of food, fueled and rested.  Thanks, Shane!

Not much of a view!

Wednesday, 29 July 2015

29 July. Mile 1448. Photo update



Silver Lake, outside of Bucks Lake.  This stretch of trail has a number of isolated lakes along the way.

Sunset clouds

More sunset clouds; I was camped on a ridge with a clear view.  A great spot and view.

Home, sweet home.  Rain cover optional; without it, you sleep under the stars.

Thermal Geyser, at Lassen National Park

Sunset from Hat Creek Rim.  I enjoyed temps in the mid 80s/30 rather than the usual 100+/40 that make this stretch infamous.


Burney Falls.  Just a mile upstream, Burney Creek is completely dry.  Water comes from out of the ground.  Chance to play the tourist.

In the distance, Mount Shasta.  A sort of 'lonely mountain' towering over the Northern California landscape.



Tuesday, 28 July 2015

Mile 1416. Burney Falls State Park. Update.


On this stretch of the trail, there's an odd inverse, where mobile data signals are present on the trail (where there aren't any power sockets), and are weak 'in town', where power is available, and civilization is present.  So, I haven't been able to update this blog when I was expecting to.

On the whole, my body is in a good place.  My stomach has readjusted.  I've loosened my laces, and my feet are no longer aching halfway through the day.  Most importantly, I'm sleeping decent hours and no longer suffering insomnia.

Weatherwise, it's much warmer now than in earlier months, but at the higher elevations, the heat is still moderated, and for the driest stretches, I've been lucky to have had cooler weather than the average.

There are small minimart stores every couple of days, and water is available at reasonably frequent intervals, so there hasn't been a need for hauling really heavy loads.

Northern California is a distinct landscape from the High Sierras and from southern California.  Geologically, what's new are the igneous rocks, and the prominent peaks on the horizon are volcanoes, Mount Lassen and Mount Shasta.

Photos to follow!

Saturday, 18 July 2015

18 July. Mile 1270. Bucks Lake. Food.

My appetite is no longer as voracious as it was earlier on the trail.  I'm not sure if that's because I restored some weight, or because the terrain is not as quite as demanding, or something else.  But I'm no longer starving every hour.  (Still, I passed through Bucks Lake today and made short work of probably 2,000 calories.)

That said, I have effectively made food a task to be dealt with while on the trail, rather than an experience to enjoy.  I imagine this is the case for most hikers.  At this point, my diet of energy bars and nuts, "supplemented" with chocolate bars, corn chips, and candy, is aimed at minimizing the amount of time spent on food--no water to boil, no dishes to clean, not even a need to clean your hands, if you avoid touching the food.  While it's possible to cook on the trail (in the sense of doing more than just boiling water, say, adjusting heat or using multiple pans), I don't know any PCT hikers doing this.  It just takes time away from the primary focus -- hiking.  (One possible exception -- one guy's father is preparing his meals and then mailing them to him along the trail to be rehydrated with boiling water.  But, like the top chefs, it always helps to have someone to help with the prep work.)

Off the trail, however, food is very much something to savor, and an experience again, especially if you're sharing a meal with other hikers.  The food along the trail trends toward the basic, but after days of energy bars,  rehydrated meals, nuts, and oatmeal, most things look scrumptious, if for no other reason than the change in fare.

Memorable food, which sort of neatly falls into categories naturally:

Artemis Grill, South Lake Tahoe: the trail angel who gave me a ride into town recommended this to me, as it was in walking distance from the hotel.  While possibly pricey for many hikers, the lamb souvlaki platter I had for supper was well executed.  The souvlaki was juicy and tasty, and the grilled vegetables were I expect an excellent samexecuted summer California produce.

La Casita, Idyllwild: I had Mexican combo platters throughout the trail, but my tamales/chile rellenos lunch here was the best, excellent not only in relative but also absolute terms.

Jenny's Cafe, Independence: there's not a whole lot in Independence, not even a stop light, but breakfast at Jenny's was certainly pleasant, with the sausage, eggs, hash browns and biscuits and gravy well prepared.  The staff on the weekends includes an eight year old setting the tables.

Great Basin Bakery, Bishop: the best food I've had on my trip were the French loaf and giant cinnamon rolls I got at this bakery (which I found out about from one of those free tourist brochures).  Crusty, chewy bread, yeasty and not overly fatty or sweet cinnamon rolls; really enjoyed these.

Casa de Luna, Green Valley: taco salad (effectively burritos) -- nothing fancy, club warehouse ingredients (like Costco), but the hospitality and quirkiness (Hawaiian shirts from a long rack were mandatory overgarments) and camaraderie made this the best meal on the trail.  And then there were pancakes the next morning!

Fire season continues on the trail.  There's a 15 mile closure in Washington, and a 17.5 mile in southern California, back at Big Bear.

18 July. Mile 1257. Plumas National Forest.



Morning sun over Plumas National Forest

Commemoration of the Donner Party at Interstate 80 rest stop.