My appetite is no longer as voracious as it was earlier on the trail. I'm not sure if that's because I restored some weight, or because the terrain is not as quite as demanding, or something else. But I'm no longer starving every hour. (Still, I passed through Bucks Lake today and made short work of probably 2,000 calories.)
That said, I have effectively made food a task to be dealt with while on the trail, rather than an experience to enjoy. I imagine this is the case for most hikers. At this point, my diet of energy bars and nuts, "supplemented" with chocolate bars, corn chips, and candy, is aimed at minimizing the amount of time spent on food--no water to boil, no dishes to clean, not even a need to clean your hands, if you avoid touching the food. While it's possible to cook on the trail (in the sense of doing more than just boiling water, say, adjusting heat or using multiple pans), I don't know any PCT hikers doing this. It just takes time away from the primary focus -- hiking. (One possible exception -- one guy's father is preparing his meals and then mailing them to him along the trail to be rehydrated with boiling water. But, like the top chefs, it always helps to have someone to help with the prep work.)
Off the trail, however, food is very much something to savor, and an experience again, especially if you're sharing a meal with other hikers. The food along the trail trends toward the basic, but after days of energy bars, rehydrated meals, nuts, and oatmeal, most things look scrumptious, if for no other reason than the change in fare.
Memorable food, which sort of neatly falls into categories naturally:
Artemis Grill, South Lake Tahoe: the trail angel who gave me a ride into town recommended this to me, as it was in walking distance from the hotel. While possibly pricey for many hikers, the lamb souvlaki platter I had for supper was well executed. The souvlaki was juicy and tasty, and the grilled vegetables were I expect an excellent samexecuted summer California produce.
La Casita, Idyllwild: I had Mexican combo platters throughout the trail, but my tamales/chile rellenos lunch here was the best, excellent not only in relative but also absolute terms.
Jenny's Cafe, Independence: there's not a whole lot in Independence, not even a stop light, but breakfast at Jenny's was certainly pleasant, with the sausage, eggs, hash browns and biscuits and gravy well prepared. The staff on the weekends includes an eight year old setting the tables.
Great Basin Bakery, Bishop: the best food I've had on my trip were the French loaf and giant cinnamon rolls I got at this bakery (which I found out about from one of those free tourist brochures). Crusty, chewy bread, yeasty and not overly fatty or sweet cinnamon rolls; really enjoyed these.
Casa de Luna, Green Valley: taco salad (effectively burritos) -- nothing fancy, club warehouse ingredients (like Costco), but the hospitality and quirkiness (Hawaiian shirts from a long rack were mandatory overgarments) and camaraderie made this the best meal on the trail. And then there were pancakes the next morning!
Fire season continues on the trail. There's a 15 mile closure in Washington, and a 17.5 mile in southern California, back at Big Bear.
That said, I have effectively made food a task to be dealt with while on the trail, rather than an experience to enjoy. I imagine this is the case for most hikers. At this point, my diet of energy bars and nuts, "supplemented" with chocolate bars, corn chips, and candy, is aimed at minimizing the amount of time spent on food--no water to boil, no dishes to clean, not even a need to clean your hands, if you avoid touching the food. While it's possible to cook on the trail (in the sense of doing more than just boiling water, say, adjusting heat or using multiple pans), I don't know any PCT hikers doing this. It just takes time away from the primary focus -- hiking. (One possible exception -- one guy's father is preparing his meals and then mailing them to him along the trail to be rehydrated with boiling water. But, like the top chefs, it always helps to have someone to help with the prep work.)
Off the trail, however, food is very much something to savor, and an experience again, especially if you're sharing a meal with other hikers. The food along the trail trends toward the basic, but after days of energy bars, rehydrated meals, nuts, and oatmeal, most things look scrumptious, if for no other reason than the change in fare.
Memorable food, which sort of neatly falls into categories naturally:
Artemis Grill, South Lake Tahoe: the trail angel who gave me a ride into town recommended this to me, as it was in walking distance from the hotel. While possibly pricey for many hikers, the lamb souvlaki platter I had for supper was well executed. The souvlaki was juicy and tasty, and the grilled vegetables were I expect an excellent samexecuted summer California produce.
La Casita, Idyllwild: I had Mexican combo platters throughout the trail, but my tamales/chile rellenos lunch here was the best, excellent not only in relative but also absolute terms.
Jenny's Cafe, Independence: there's not a whole lot in Independence, not even a stop light, but breakfast at Jenny's was certainly pleasant, with the sausage, eggs, hash browns and biscuits and gravy well prepared. The staff on the weekends includes an eight year old setting the tables.
Great Basin Bakery, Bishop: the best food I've had on my trip were the French loaf and giant cinnamon rolls I got at this bakery (which I found out about from one of those free tourist brochures). Crusty, chewy bread, yeasty and not overly fatty or sweet cinnamon rolls; really enjoyed these.
Casa de Luna, Green Valley: taco salad (effectively burritos) -- nothing fancy, club warehouse ingredients (like Costco), but the hospitality and quirkiness (Hawaiian shirts from a long rack were mandatory overgarments) and camaraderie made this the best meal on the trail. And then there were pancakes the next morning!
Fire season continues on the trail. There's a 15 mile closure in Washington, and a 17.5 mile in southern California, back at Big Bear.
