Friday, 28 August 2015

Gear

The PCT seems a long, long time ago.  Readapting to living "in civilization" went quickly, though my feet still ache from time to time.   I've spent a few weeks spending time with family, including road trips to Big Sur on the California coast and to Portland, Oregon (lots of smoke in the northwest; there are about sixty miles of PCT trail closures in Oregon and Washington due to forest fires).

To wrap up my trail blog, I've included kit details below, as a gear discussion is a traditional inclusion in every PCT blog I've seen.  I'd considered trying to summarize my closing thoughts about the trail in another entry, but I've concluded that there's still more reflection required and that there will still be takeaways and impacts that I'm not yet aware of.  I am planning to return to the office and my company and will now be searching for a role.  In any case, I expect that returning to a busy schedule will trigger more thoughts on my hike.

So, this entry will close things out for the moment.  Sadly, this topic will bore folks not interested in gear!  If you have an interest, then read on...

Gear:

Nowadays, there are a wide variety of vendors offering an ever increasingly sophisticated variety of gear for the outdoors.  Just about every item can be considered for trade-offs across price, weight, and functionality.  You can spend endless hours agonizing over choices and analyzing the contents of posted gear lists for other hikers.

My general thoughts for multimonth hikes:

*Gear can be very individual.  I recommend attempting to field test as much of your kit as possible in advance of your trip to learn what works for you.  Hours of analysis and contemplation are no substitute for the learnings from in-the-field experience.  Also, you needn't follow what "everyone else is doing"; pack what works for you.

*On a multimonth hike, inevitably you will end up replacing some gear with a different model, and incurring the accompanying costs, unless you're already gone through this process as an experienced long distance hiker.  This is typical and not something to fret over (budget permitting).

*Speaking of budgets, a long distance hike may be more expensive than you think.  In addition to gear, there's the cost of food, resupplying consumables like fuel and sanitizer, transport (to and from the trail, within the trail), the occasional hotel room or hostel, and socializing.  With respect to budget and gear:

1) Spending more for additional lightness or functionality can be worth it.  There are hikers who end up replacing tents, backpacks, shoes or other expensive items on the trail and end up spending more than they would have if they had bought the more expensive model to start.  Try to take the time to try things out in advance, including taking the time in the store with a salesperson to test things out.  Think about the factors that are most important to you, rather than all the features that are marketed, or all the features touted on blogs.

2) Still, you certainly don't need the most expensive model of everything.  People who hiked the PCT twenty years ago had nowhere near the designs and materials offered to hikers today.  An extra pound in base weight will not doom your hike.

*In any case, unless you've splurged on the lightest gear in all categories, you will repeatedly spend time throughout your hike thinking about how you can reduce your pack weight!

In my case, naturally I didn't follow my advice.  Given limited options in India, I bought my gear online in the U.S., sight unseen, then packed it up, untested, when I returned.  I hit the trail and hoped for the best.  (I hadn't even fully pitched my tent until my first night on the trail; I don't recommend this approach!).

That said, to improve my odds of success (and overall the my kit was a success), I followed two actions.

First, I performed moderate online research, looking at maybe a dozen PCT gear lists, a half-dozen videos, and a half-dozen sites with gear reviews and tips (in particular, REI, Section Hiker, Outdoor Gear Lab, and Andrew Skurka).  This gave me a sense of the major vendors and products and trade-offs.

Second, I leveraged my UK hiking experience -- this was my stand-in for testing gear in advance.  For example, my UK daypack wasn't big enough for a long distance hike, but I used its sizing for ordering another pack.

I chose gear that was widely used, and I tried to buy as much of it on sale as I could over the course of several months.  Other demands in India limited the time available to obsess over gear and prevented "analysis paralysis".

Without further ado...

Pack: ULA Circuit.  Far from the lightest pack available, but tried and true by probably hundreds of PCT hikers.  I went with the basic model, not the cuben material version.  The pack was a little tight with a bear can, but it worked well for my 1,600 miles.  In the summer, this was the most common pack on the trail.  In the spring, the Osprey Exo 58 was the most common pack I saw.

Tent: Big Agnes Fly Creek UL1.  Pricey, and again, not the lightest model available, but it is straightforward to set up just about anywhere.  The tent is small; I wouldn't recommend it for anyone six feet tall.  Condensation is an issue.  But overall, I recommend it.  The material may seem flimsy but it held up fairly well, and the tent kept me sheltered from elements including a snowstorm, hail, and high winds.

Sleeping Bag: Sierra Designs Backcountry down quilt.  The particular 40 degree-rated model I got appears discontinued, with other models replacing this.  As with all sleeping quilts, it's lighter than a sleeping bag, given the absence of material on the bottom.  There were definitely a number of nights where a warmer bag would have been welcome.  If you sleep cold, I recommend a warmer bag, even if it's heavier.  I compensated by wearing  layers and, for a few nights in the High Sierras, actually using an emergency blanket.  I used a silk liner to help keep the bag clean.  My pillow was always extra clothing in the cuben bag used for my quilt.

Shoes: Merrill Ventilators, "wide" model.  These are very common, basic hiking shoes.  Not as light as trail runners, but as I wrote before, trail runners are generally too narrow for my feet.  I didn't bother with anything water-resistant or waterproof; I wanted as much ventilation as possible.  I bought these in person, not online, and wore these indoors for a few days first to validate they were comfortable (if not, then you still have a clean pair of shoes to return).

Water treatment: I used a Sawyer filter primarily and carried Aquamira as a backup.  I actually used three different filters...

1) I started with the Sawyer-mini.  Brilliant design, but the drawback of the mini is that it has a relatively slow flow rate; it takes a while to filter lots of water.  If you filter water directly into your mouth, the flow feels appropriate for savoring a fine wine, not quenching thirst.

2) In Bishop, as the local outfitter didn't have the regular-sized Sawyer, I bought an Aquamira filter bottle, which has the filter and a bite valve built in to the top for a plastic bottle.  This worked great for a High Sierra environment where there was flowing water all over the trail; you could just grab water and go and suck it up through the valve.  The limitation was that you couldn't filter water into another container.  Which led me finally to using...

3) the "normal" sized Sawyer filter, which has a much faster flow rate than the mini.  The o-ring on the normal filter is somewhat fragile, though, and broke off after 400 miles, which meant I had to reseat this in the filter every time I unscrewed the filter from a container.  In the end, no filter was perfect.  For a long-distance hike, I'd recommend the normal-sized Sawyer overall.  The weight savings of the mini are outweighed by the slower flow rate.  The mini would be great for trips where you will only be filtering small amounts of water.

For carrying water, I primarily used SmartWater water bottles or the generic Safeway electrolyte water bottles.  I carried a 2-L Platypus for when extra water was needed.  I carried a 1-L Platypus that I used with the Sawyer filters (until it sprung a leak; I then switched to the Sawyer Squeeze bags that came with the filter).  I always had an empty 591-mL bottle (Vitamin Water or Gatorade) for scooping up water.

Sleeping pad: the other item that I replaced.  I ended up using the Therm-a-Rest Z lite sol, which is much warmer than the Gossamer Gear foam pad I started with.

Outerwear:

Insulated jacket - Montbell Thermawrap.  Loved this jacket, which was key given it gets chilly in the mountains, even in August.  You can get relatively inexpensive down coats at Uniqlo or Costco; not sure of the quality.

Fleece - I didn't see anyone else on the trail carrying a fleece; everyone else appeared to only carry an insulated jacket.  However, I found I got too hot hiking while wearing an insulated jacket.  A fleece has breathability in addition to its warmth.  I much preferred hiking with a fleece on if I needed something warm.  The fleece was worth the extra weight to me.

Rainwear - Montbell Versalite waterproofs.  Given the dry weather, the pants weren't really needed, though the jacket I used enough times to be worth carrying.  Worked fine.

Clothing:

Socks - Drymax 1/4 length trail socks.  Very expensive synthetics, but they work incredibly well for my feet, and they are sturdy and didn't need replacing -- no holes.  Definitely worth the investment for me as they helped to keep my feet dry and thus minimize blisters.

Shirt - Ex-Officio button-down, 90% nylon/10% polyester.  Held up well, way less stinky than 100% polyester shirts that I've worn.  Available at a discount if one is less concerned about the particular style/color.  I wore long sleeves to keep off the sun, insects, and wind.

Trousers - Columbia convertibles.  Worked great, apart from the stitching coming out of the back pockets after a few hundred miles.  I didn't really use the convertibility feature.

Hat: I wore a sunhat of the type with a removable drape the lay on and covered my neck.  Not at all a stylish design, but invaluable for keeping the high altitude sun off of my skin and eliminating any need for hauling sunblock around.  (The drape made me wonder if this is what having long hair feels like, in having to move it out of the way while drinking, and wanting to move it out of the way to let the back of your neck feel the fresh air.)

Trekking poles - Black Diamond poles with cork grips, aluminum shafts and those external flip locks that are easy to release.  Trekking poles help me immensely with long-distance hiking, but there are significant numbers of hikers who hike without poles.  I also wore batting gloves while hiking -- these kept the sun, insects, and blisters off my hands.

Electronics-wise, I carried a smartphone and a pocket FM/AM radio.  Most hikers don't pack a radio, but I'd pack this again -- I found it great to have along.

Those, I think, are all the key components of my kit.  For extra clothing, I started with many extra items, but by the end of my hike I was down to one extra pair of socks, one extra pair of underwear (the widely popular Ex-Officio brand), a long sleeve Patagonia capilene, a short-sleeve wool shirt, and a pair of running shorts with a built-in liner.  You get used to wearing the same clothes over and over again.

Food wise, as I noted, I did not carry a stove (and thus didn't carry any fuel or pans).

I did weigh some of my gear, but I didn't go to the lengths of weighing everything.  Nor did I type out a complete inventory of my pack.  So, I don't know my actual base weight (base weight doesn't consider food or water), but I figure it was well under 20 lbs to start, and maybe 16 pounds by the end, once I had a better sense of what I needed (heresy, I know, not knowing my base weight, but in the run-up to starting my hike, given limited time with my gear, all I was focused on was that my pack be manageable, not weighed to the ounce).

So, hiking with gear you've never used before can be done, but there's tremendous value in trying things out beforehand!

Tuesday, 11 August 2015

7 August. Mile 1597. Etna. The End. The End?!

I am departing from the trail!  I know, this is likely a surprise (even to me, in the sense that I note below).  My thoughts:

I think I have gotten about as much out of the hike as I could with regards to my physical and mental health.  My fitness levels are the best they have been in years.  Mentally, my mind is rested (so much so, I think, that part of the reason I have periodic insomnic nights is because my mind is wide awake from being on stand-by during the day's miles).

I can go further in improving my body's health, but that will require consistent and consecutive nights of high quality sleep, and a diet that isn't dependent on periodic infusions of massive quantities of refined, processed calories.

While the mental satisfaction of finishing the trail would still a reward, in order to get there, I'd need to incur the physical and mental costs that would accompany another 1,000 miles of hiking.  I, however, am not returning post-hike to retirement or to a defined role or to the known task of hunting for employment.  I am on a limited period of unpaid leave, with my former role having been filled.  My thinking is to take some time to rest off-trail and catch up with friends and family, and then use the end of this leave to focus on finding a new role and figuring out the associated living logistics.

Originally, I was planning to hike to Crater Lake and end there, about 1800 miles in.  On Wednesday, however, the trail became enveloped in smoke, limiting visibility to a few miles, and leaving a smoky taste in the throat.  The forest fires in northern California and southern Oregon are throwing off vast amounts of smoke being carried far afield by summer winds.

So, I decided after hiking in smog for 40 miles to stop at the town of Etna, nearly 1600 miles in.  It felt strange, after I had mentally been preparing to push on to mile 1820, to suddenly stop.  But every time I revisited the question of continuing, I just looked up and saw the horizon obscured by smoke, and then checked and saw the weather forecasts called for no changes for the next week and for smoke over at least the next 120 miles, and I reached the same conclusion.  (Even if my fellow hikers were pressing on.)

So, I have come off the trail and will be focused on a different kind of break and family time.  Thank you to everyone who followed along!  I imagine that I will have another post or two as I adjust to Life Without Hiking 20 Miles a Day, so this blog isn't entirely complete, even if the hike has ended...

Sunday, 2 August 2015

2 August. Mile 1500. Castle Crags Park

There was a heat wave in northern California the past week, with temperatures well over 100/40, low humidity, winds -- a fire fighter's nightmare.  Clouds moved in yesterday, and temps have cooled, but the air is now filled with a haze, obscuring all views, possibly due in part to the various fires in northern California.

My friend Shane took his weekend in the middle of his business trip to Phoenix to fly up and meet me at Castle Crag park for a day in Redding to clean up, resupply, and refuel while catching up.  I'm making a 5000 foot ascent today with clean clothes and a pack full of food, fueled and rested.  Thanks, Shane!

Not much of a view!

Wednesday, 29 July 2015

29 July. Mile 1448. Photo update



Silver Lake, outside of Bucks Lake.  This stretch of trail has a number of isolated lakes along the way.

Sunset clouds

More sunset clouds; I was camped on a ridge with a clear view.  A great spot and view.

Home, sweet home.  Rain cover optional; without it, you sleep under the stars.

Thermal Geyser, at Lassen National Park

Sunset from Hat Creek Rim.  I enjoyed temps in the mid 80s/30 rather than the usual 100+/40 that make this stretch infamous.


Burney Falls.  Just a mile upstream, Burney Creek is completely dry.  Water comes from out of the ground.  Chance to play the tourist.

In the distance, Mount Shasta.  A sort of 'lonely mountain' towering over the Northern California landscape.



Tuesday, 28 July 2015

Mile 1416. Burney Falls State Park. Update.


On this stretch of the trail, there's an odd inverse, where mobile data signals are present on the trail (where there aren't any power sockets), and are weak 'in town', where power is available, and civilization is present.  So, I haven't been able to update this blog when I was expecting to.

On the whole, my body is in a good place.  My stomach has readjusted.  I've loosened my laces, and my feet are no longer aching halfway through the day.  Most importantly, I'm sleeping decent hours and no longer suffering insomnia.

Weatherwise, it's much warmer now than in earlier months, but at the higher elevations, the heat is still moderated, and for the driest stretches, I've been lucky to have had cooler weather than the average.

There are small minimart stores every couple of days, and water is available at reasonably frequent intervals, so there hasn't been a need for hauling really heavy loads.

Northern California is a distinct landscape from the High Sierras and from southern California.  Geologically, what's new are the igneous rocks, and the prominent peaks on the horizon are volcanoes, Mount Lassen and Mount Shasta.

Photos to follow!

Saturday, 18 July 2015

18 July. Mile 1270. Bucks Lake. Food.

My appetite is no longer as voracious as it was earlier on the trail.  I'm not sure if that's because I restored some weight, or because the terrain is not as quite as demanding, or something else.  But I'm no longer starving every hour.  (Still, I passed through Bucks Lake today and made short work of probably 2,000 calories.)

That said, I have effectively made food a task to be dealt with while on the trail, rather than an experience to enjoy.  I imagine this is the case for most hikers.  At this point, my diet of energy bars and nuts, "supplemented" with chocolate bars, corn chips, and candy, is aimed at minimizing the amount of time spent on food--no water to boil, no dishes to clean, not even a need to clean your hands, if you avoid touching the food.  While it's possible to cook on the trail (in the sense of doing more than just boiling water, say, adjusting heat or using multiple pans), I don't know any PCT hikers doing this.  It just takes time away from the primary focus -- hiking.  (One possible exception -- one guy's father is preparing his meals and then mailing them to him along the trail to be rehydrated with boiling water.  But, like the top chefs, it always helps to have someone to help with the prep work.)

Off the trail, however, food is very much something to savor, and an experience again, especially if you're sharing a meal with other hikers.  The food along the trail trends toward the basic, but after days of energy bars,  rehydrated meals, nuts, and oatmeal, most things look scrumptious, if for no other reason than the change in fare.

Memorable food, which sort of neatly falls into categories naturally:

Artemis Grill, South Lake Tahoe: the trail angel who gave me a ride into town recommended this to me, as it was in walking distance from the hotel.  While possibly pricey for many hikers, the lamb souvlaki platter I had for supper was well executed.  The souvlaki was juicy and tasty, and the grilled vegetables were I expect an excellent samexecuted summer California produce.

La Casita, Idyllwild: I had Mexican combo platters throughout the trail, but my tamales/chile rellenos lunch here was the best, excellent not only in relative but also absolute terms.

Jenny's Cafe, Independence: there's not a whole lot in Independence, not even a stop light, but breakfast at Jenny's was certainly pleasant, with the sausage, eggs, hash browns and biscuits and gravy well prepared.  The staff on the weekends includes an eight year old setting the tables.

Great Basin Bakery, Bishop: the best food I've had on my trip were the French loaf and giant cinnamon rolls I got at this bakery (which I found out about from one of those free tourist brochures).  Crusty, chewy bread, yeasty and not overly fatty or sweet cinnamon rolls; really enjoyed these.

Casa de Luna, Green Valley: taco salad (effectively burritos) -- nothing fancy, club warehouse ingredients (like Costco), but the hospitality and quirkiness (Hawaiian shirts from a long rack were mandatory overgarments) and camaraderie made this the best meal on the trail.  And then there were pancakes the next morning!

Fire season continues on the trail.  There's a 15 mile closure in Washington, and a 17.5 mile in southern California, back at Big Bear.

18 July. Mile 1257. Plumas National Forest.



Morning sun over Plumas National Forest

Commemoration of the Donner Party at Interstate 80 rest stop.

Sunday, 12 July 2015

12 July. Mile 1153. Donner Pass.

On the bus ride back to South Lake Tahoe we passed through a line of thunderstorms complete with torrential rains, plenty of lightning, and dark clouds that snuffed out any daylight.  The local Tahoe paper had photos of of golf ball sized hail and a waterspout over the lake from earlier in the week.  The unusual weather has cleared.

The High Sierras took a lot out of me.  In spite of my break, my stomach and feet are less than stellar in response to the return to trail food and hiking.

Pleasant surprise at Dinner Pass -- the local ski lodge is open on summer weekends, so I had an unplanned sandwich, fries, and soda for dinner.  Afterwards, a local showed myself and some other hikers his drone.


Lake Tahoe in the distance

Sunset over Dinner Lake

Thursday, 9 July 2015

July 9. Books.

I originally started this hike with an e-reader packed in my bag.  However, I hardly used it, as I found myself belonging to that class of hiker that tends to keep hiking until running out of daylight.  So, I removed the e-reader when I added all my gear for the high sierras.

Naturally, with the longer daylight hours and elevation-enforced shorter daily mileages, I actually had a fair amount of down time during daylight hours in the mountains, which I filled looking over a California state map and those free tourist brochures available in motel displays.  I can spend hours looking at maps and thinking about space and imagining journeys and destinations.  (My world atlas was one of my belongings that merited being kept when departing India.).

Still, one can only spend so much time on California maps, so when I reached Mammoth Lakes, I decided to add weight in the form of a paperback to my kit.  Over the last few weeks, I've been reading (mostly off the trail; weight remains key!).  My focus has been fiction:

*Dead Until Dark - the first in the series of Sookie Stackhouse novels by Charlaine Harris that served as the source material for HBO's television series True Blood.  I never saw the show.  A mystery wrapped around vampires and relationships.  I bought this at the Mammoth Lakes library's used book store, the Book Chalet, and left this at the Mammoth Motel 6.  I haven't read or seen any of Twilight, but from what I know, there seem to be some parallels.

* Talking God - one of many of Tony Hillerman's mystery novels woven around daily life and culture of the Native American Navajos in the southwestern U.S.  This was my trail book for the past 200 miles.  In coming off the trail:

* Mr. Mercedes - Stephen King's 'hard-boiled' detective novel, free of the supernatural, but not the horrific.

* The Wishstones of Shannara - the second book in Terry Brooks' original Shannara trilogy, and the story of the group I remembered most enjoying.  A 'quest' book involving journeying over long distances; hiking the PCT makes me think of quests.

* The Last Ship - William Brinkley's post-nuclear apocalypse tale of a lone Navy destroyer at sea.  There's a TNT network television series based on this book, but from what I've read so far, and from what I've seen of the TV promos, the TV storyline is dramatically different from the book, which in many ways is an ode to the ocean and to naval crews.  This book is physically too big for the trail, so completing this will have to wait.

For the trail:
* Siege of Darkness - in my bag, a one dollar purchase of a used R.A. Salvatore Dungeons and Dragons fantasy novel from the 90s.
* The Blessing Way - to be received up the trail, this is the first of Tony Hillerman's Navajo crime fiction novels.
* Blood Test - more mystery/crime fiction, my first dip into Jonathan Kellerman's work with an early story in his Alex Delaware series.

Wednesday, 8 July 2015

July 8. Back to the trail...

It's been an extended break!

* Administration: I think I've finally closed out the outstanding paperwork due this summer, including some required hard copy documents.

* Word Cup 2015: Success for the U.S.!  What a tournament for Carli Lloyd!  The U.S. was more consistent and had greater improvement in its play than all the other teams.  (I think the best match, though, was the quarterfinal between Germany and France -- end to end action and intensity.)

* Inclement weather: there have been some heavy rain storms in the Lake Tahoe area over the past week, and flash flood watches the past two days; hence, I'm still off-trail.  I am heading back tomorrow.  The area can certainly use the rain, as the lake level is quite low, given the drought.

* Calories: I was down 20 pounds when I left the trail; I'm presently down 13.

* The future: I've looked ahead at the balance of the trail, and have planned out resupply points, and possible exit points depending on different possibilities for what I'll be doing in autumn (I've been thinking a lot about this).  For going forward, I'm not expecting to be taking many zero days on the trail, weather and forest fires permitting.


Thursday, 25 June 2015

25 June. Mile 1090. Photos.

Devil's Postpile National Monument: fantastic basalt rock formation

River -- definitely not the dry desert south

Thousand Island Lake

Deer in the morning in Toulumne Meadows, Yosemite

Toulumne Falls

Post-Yosemite, a two thousand foot ascent.  Note this ridge isn't a wall of granite, as would have been the case in the national parks

Top of the ascent, where my radio sprang back to life, with Katy Perry greeting my return

"Typo"

Still in the mountains

No longer surrounded by granite cliffs

In the distance, Lake Tahoe


Hard to see, but there's a bear going through the garbage

Tuesday, 23 June 2015

23 June. Mile 1090. Echo Summit / South Lake Tahoe. Summer.

I was wrong about restored connectivity; it's been another extended stretch with no signals.  So, to catch up...

After a couple of cool, rainy days resting in Mammoth Lakes (daily routine: breakfast, then a few hours in the public library, then stocking up on calories at the Vons market, including a daily pint of gelato/ice cream/frozen yogurt, followed by soccer matches in the afternoon/evening), I headed back out to the trail on the first daily Reds Meadow bus from Mammoth Lakes of the summer 2015 season.  Summer has arrived on the trail.  The nights have no longer been freezing, but the warmer temperatures have brought out the mosquitoes...

The hundred miles up to and through Yosemite Park are full of more steep alpine canyons and meadows.  The elevation changes have moderated -- only 1-2,000 foot changes instead of 3-4,000 -- but remain steep and tiring.  The meadows are muddy with snowmelt, leading to the mosquitoes.

Beyond Yosemite, my radio began picking up Nevada stations, even if my phone remained unconnected, and the terrain began drying out, as any snow had already melted and run off, leaving dry channels.  Unfortunately, the dry conditions are at high risk for fire.  After my arrival to South Lake Tahoe on Sunday, a fire just off the trail has grown to over 16,000 acres in size, and at least a few hikers were told to skip over a 75 mile trail section due to the fire; they hitchhiked in to South Lake Tahoe.

I've headed off the trail for a bit to wrap up some administrative items, catch some more soccer, visit family, and think through my plan and approach for the trail going forward.  More thoughts and photos to follow.


Wednesday, 10 June 2015

9 June. Mile 907. Reds Meadow / Mammoth Lakes. Elevation.

Water defines the southern section of the trail.  You ensured over the course of any given day that there was a source to fill up at, and these locations impacted your schedules and overnight stops.

In this section of the Sierras, mountain passes have been the key factor.  At 11-12,000 feet, the passes bring thin air altitudes, steep elevation changes, and snow to the trail.  I tried to position myself every evening close to the next pass in order to make use of the frozen, packed snow the next morning, in contrast to the soft snow of midday/afternoon.  Going from south to north, the descents from these passes into the snow on the north faces can be tricky.  With significant snow cover, there's no trail to follow; you have to work your way down through the snow.

The scenery is stunning, however.  Over every pass is another alpine valley or series of lakes.  The air is clear and free of haze or pollution.  Presently, what snow has fallen last winter is melting, and there are creeks and streams of crystal clear running water everywhere (unfortunately for California, in another few weeks many of these will probably dry up).  Drinking this water is a treat; there's a bracing chill to this snowmelt.

The high canyon walls cut you off from civilization, however.  I had no mobile service and couldn't pick up any radio stations for eight days.  It's a bit unsettling; you feel sort of in the middle of nowhere, with no communications and multiple mountain passes between you and a route to civilization.  Also, with 3-4,000 feet elevation changes on either side of passes, and with lower oxygen levels at altitude, your pace is limited.  For the first five days, I could hike only 9-13 miles a day.  For the last three days, as the terrain leveled slightly, with lower passes with less snow, and as I had five fewer days of food weight in my pack, I tried to push the pace and woke up before dawn to maximize hiking hours and covered seventy miles.  This allowed me to bypass one of my originally planned stops and instead head into Mammoth Lakes.

Mammoth Lakes is a mountain town at nearly 8,000 feet elevation, with a huge network of ski trails for the winter, and fishing, biking, and hiking in the summer.  More than half the vehicles are four-wheel drive trucks or SUVs, and half the businesses seem to be outdoor outfitters for activities like skiing and fishing.  All of the public trash bins are bear-proof, and the town is right next to part of the Inyo National Forest.

Unconventionally for PCT hikers, rather than a one day stop, I will be taking a few days off again.  First, I've realized that I haven't been eating enough food.  I don't have a scale, but I know I've lost my excess weight, and my hiking pants belt is cinched tight on pants that are now too big.  This is impacting my stamina (and, undoubtedly, my health).  I need to take in some more calories, and to upsize my menu for the next extended trail stage.  (I dream of food each night.  Mangoes in India, fish & chips from the high street, NY bagels and pizza, choucroute garnie, Asian food courts packed with Pacific rice and noodle dishes; my mind cycles through a plethora of flavors from around the world.). Second, the Women's World Cup kicked off last weekend.  This will be the last chance to see some of the players I've followed the past four years on the pitch.

I've got connectivity in Mammoth Lakes, and there's more coverage on the trail now that I've exited the alpine heights of Kings Canyon Park, so I expect I can update my blog more frequently.








Saturday, 30 May 2015

30 May. Mile 789: Kearsarge Pass to Independence.

This is a lengthy post.  I have some daily trip comments.  This latest part of the trip has been packed.

Wed 20 May: Morning started with a 4am alarm to catch a 5:15am bus from Lake Isabella back to Walker Pass and the PCT en route to the town of Ridgecrest.  My fellow passengers were six other hikers; the soundtrack for the ride was Eric Clapton Unplugged, which the driver played over the speakers.  On the trail that day, I had twenty other hikers pass by me; the number of persons on the trail where I am hiking has gone up dramatically.  After a week at sea level, it was a very difficult day hiking back at a mile high altitude with significant ups and downs, hauling multiple liters of water.

Thu 21 May: Body felt much better today, after 24 hours at altitude.  In the afternoon, during a long, long descent,  there were thunderstorms only a few miles ahead.  The nighttime temperature were freezing, as evidenced by the ice on my tent the next morning.

Fri 22 May: Rain drizzle throughout the day.  Arrived midday at Kennedy Meadows, a very small community considered the gateway to the higher elevations of the Sierras.  There were over forty hikers at the general store, eating, drinking, standing around the furnace to stay warm, and standing in line for the washing machine or shower.  I had a hot lunch, resupplied, and pushed on into the drizzle.  The rain cleares up, but it was another cold night.

Sat 23 May: Made it to 10,000 feet.  Part of what people must enjoy about the Sierras is the separateness of the environment.  You have all of these pine-covered peaks with periodic alpine meadows.  Unlike the earlier trail sections, where you looked down on the interstates, or sea level, the Sierras are a separate world.

Sun 24 May: I had realized that I might be slightly short on food.  I decided to drop down to the Horseshoe Meadows campground, two miles off the trail, to see if any trail angels might be about on Memorial Day weekend.  The campground was pretty quiet.  I ran into a group of four friends down from San Jose planning to summit Mount Whitney on Monday; they noted it had snowed the night before (though the snow had all melted).  They were kind enough to provide some water (the camp water had been shut off due to the drought), and a few granola bars.  It's challenging to carry enough food to provide 2,000, let alone 2,500 calories, per day when you're carrying for 5+ days with limited space in a bear canister (required in the Sierras). My appetite has increased; while hiking, I'm basically eating something every two hours.

Mon 25 May: I was a bit surprised that more hikers coming out of Kennedy Meadows hadn't passed me.  Quiet day hiking through more pine-covered slopes.

Tue 26 May: Probably the most packed day I've had.  Given the continued freezing nights, I'd decided to try and up my mileage to try and get to my next resupply point, Independence, a day earlier.  The scenery made dramatic changes several times this day, as I worked my way through Sequoia National Park into Kings Canyon National Park.  In particular, I hiked over Forrester Pass, the highest point on the PCT, and a challenging obstacle given the north face remained completely covered in snow; snow hiking is slow and challenging, as you don't want to sprain or break anything if your leg goes through the snow.  The pass is the transition point between the parks; on the Kings Canyon side, there are few campsites, and I hiked on until sunset to find a place to stop for the night.

Wed 27 May:  My shoes had frozen overnight; I don't think that's ever happened before.  After a week of freezing nights; of a diet of energy bars, protein bars, and other processed foods; and of hiking around 10,000 feet, my body felt drained and chilled with an upset stomach.  I made my way east over Kearsarge Pass to Independence, which doesn't consist of much more than a few businesses.

Independence isn't the most engaging place to take a break, but that's what I've done.  My body has shown clear signs of stress, so I've gotten some good nights of sleep (at warm temperatures; it's been in the nineties/thirties during the day) and have been putting away calories during the day.  My appetite seems endless.  On Saturday, I was able to watch Arsenal's FA Cup victory over Aston Villa (with Prince William in attendance) and the U.S. women's national team final warm-up friendly prior to next week's World Cup kick-off--an unconvincing draw with South Korea.

The weather reports for Sunday call for high winds, including gusts of up to 60mph Sunday night.  Having felt these sorts of winds coming out of Tehachapi, I prefer to avoid them, so it's another day in Independence...

First alpine meadow encountered northbound on PCT

Ubiquitous Sierra pine trees

Up in the clouds

View on the descent approach to Crabtree Meadows.  Mt Whitney lies beyond these peaks

Life representation of PCT crest

The flat landscape of the Bighorn Plateau


Approach to Forrester Pass

Sign on top of Forrester Pass

View of north side of Forrester Pass.  A great deal of snow to navigate

Just after I made my way down the north face of Forrester Pass, clouds covered the pass

Sunset in Kings Canyon park

In the Sierras, water is much more plentiful than in southern California

There are multiple lakes on the trails leading to Kearsarge Pass


Looking west of Kearsarge Pass

Looking east of Kearsarge Pass

Tuesday, 19 May 2015

19 May. People

While the majority of a PCT hike is spent alone with one's thoughts while walking on the trail or resting in a sleeping bag/tent, as humans are generally social beings, your interactions with other people greatly impact your experience.

If trends hold, then for 2015, the Pacific Crest Trail Association will have issued over 3,000 permits combined to thru-hikers (planning to complete the entire trail, roughly 60%) and section hikers (targeting more than 500 miles hiking but not the entirety of the trail, roughly 40%).  I expect I'm in the"early" group; the majority of hikers start later in April or May; there's a kickoff event in late April at Lake Morena that attracts thousands of hikers, previous hikers, volunteers, and vendors.

I've met about eighty other hikers on the trail.  Gender percentages are about 75-80% male and 20-25% female.  Age-wise, there seems to be a three-way split between people in their early 20s, in their late 30s/early 40s, and in their sixties; that is, not surprisingly, most hikers are either young (without families or careers) or retired.  Of those I've spoken with in a little more detail, about half of the hikers are from the west coast of the U.S. -- the PCT trail states of California, Oregon, and Washington.

Professional backgrounds are wide-ranging, from engineer to microbiologist to accountant to express delivery driver to temporary worker.  There's even a family of four with two children who are walking north to Canada!  What everyone shares is an enjoyment of maxing out on fresh air and the outdoors while carrying a heavy bag up and down mountains and thinking about finding water.

At this time of the season, you predominantly run into other hikers not hiking on the trail itself but rather stopping at water sources, resupply towns, and at "trail angels" who open their homes (or, most often yards) to hikers for the night.  Hikers will chat about the trail; how much water you're carrying, how far you're going that day, the gear you're using, the weather.

Trail angels hosting hikers for the night are a marvel of generosity.  While there will be rules, and while they may be dependent on monetary donations, all of these angels will be donating their time every single evening during hiking season to supporting complete strangers on their hikes. Sometimes there are showers, sometimes food, sometimes transport to resupply, and sometimes all three.  For hikers, after days in the wilderness, even a brief contact with civilization can be rejuvenating.  The best night of sleep that I've had on the trail was in the Anderson's backyard in Green Valley, in spite of the cold and the blazing full moon.  I suspect that this was because of the camaraderie that evening with the other half-dozen hikers and the genuine warmth of the Andersons and their nightly hosted "taco salad"/burritos.  The Andersons have hosted thousands of hikers over 15 years; their home, Casa De Luna, provides self-described "hiker daycare" and has been called affectionately a vortex, with the backyard also earning nicknames, including Narnia.

Other trail angels provide "trail magic", where you find unexpected water and other beverages and snacks on the trail, and sometimes even seating.

Of course, the trail looms over all of this, as all hiker conversations end with people returning to their hikes.  I hit the trail again on Wednesday, to climb into the Sierra Nevada and the crown jewels of the National Parks in California -- Kings Canyon, Sequioa, and Yosemite.  The trail will change in character, as water sources will be much more frequent and elevations much higher -- on the order of ten thousand feet, rather than five-six thousand.  Data connections will be few and far between, so I expect long gaps in my blog updates.

Friday, 15 May 2015

10 May. Mile 652: Walker Pass. Elements

A combination of a slow writer, no off days, and a four day stretch without cell service has left a gap in my blog.  It's been an eventful trip since Green Valley, particularly with the weather.  After spending two nights with "trail angels" (more to come in a separate post), the treck into Kern County, California has been marked by exposure to a sequential set of elements.  First, the sun, as there was a full day treck across flat, shadeless desert land heading into the Tehachapi Mountains.  Next, the wind, as the pass between where the Tehachapi Mountains end and the Sierra Nevada range starts is the location of one of the largest wind turbine farms in the world.  What I imagine were 60 mph winds snatched away my sunhat in my ascent (lesson for me; put my hat away during those kind of winds.  My temporary replacement has been wrapping a T-shirt around my head and holding it in place with a headlamp).  Then, snow and ice, as ironically during one of the driest stretches of the trail, I ran into a storm that at peak spots left six inches of snow and hail for me to push through (happily, the daytime air temps in May meant my toes didn't face frostbite).  And then, back to sun, as just a day after trekking through snow, I was hauling 17 pounds of water on my back as I traversed the edge of the Mojave Desert.

It's May in the U.S., and a number of hikers are temporarily leaving the trail to attend events like weddings and graduations.  I, too, am taking a temporary break (as I'd been planning from the start) to close out some administrative and logistical items that I couldn't complete prior to commencing my hike.

When I return to the trail and head into the Sierras, I'll leave behind the relatively widespread cell coverage of southern California, and blog updates will be much more infrequent, on a par with this gap.

Aqueduct, sending water south to Los Angeles

Joshua Tree

On the left, a Joshua tree apart from the pack.  Sadly, for U2 fans, these streets do have names.  This road eventually turns into Aqueduct Road.

Wind farm, south of the Tehachapi Mountains

Wind farm, north of the Tehachapis

High altitude pine forest, Kern County

Pacific Crest Trail marker.  The crest at the top is a favorite sight for PCT hikers -- it shows you haven't strayed from the path

Western side of Mojave Desert.  Luckily, temperatures on this day were mild, and there was a breeze